the day I returned

I have missed surfing. It was my life since I was fifteen years old but it has been neglected because of work, family, land locked locations, time and injuries all culminating in a body that has lost its surfing muscle and a mind that lost its confidence.

But I am back in the water. I still have some of these issues but after catching a few waves again and feeling that feeling that only a surfer knows, I am working on the return. I hope it helps you too!